RADIO SHACK 120-586 Pocket Radio -- a 'Sleeper' MW Long Distance Radio

A 'sleeper' product is usually a product that is an excellent one, and one that you wouldn't think of as an excellent product just by looking at it.

The old Radio Shack Pocket Radio, 1978, on Left -- and the Radio Shack Pocket Radio, circa 2012, Model 120-586, on right. Both are simple radios with two IC's, one to run the radio circuits, the other to push audio through the speaker. You can tell that Radio Shack's newer Pocket Radio has retro styling from this picture.

When it comes to radios, there are many 'sleepers'. The Sangean PR-D5 I mentioned in two of my posts earlier on this blog is one of these 'sleeper' radios. It was marketed as a table radio -- it looks like something a soccer mom would have in her kitchen to listen to soft pop music. And it looks like a mini-boombox -- which it actually is. But the PR-D5 has excellent performance, especially for those MW listeners who want to hear stations from far away. In fact, it's one of the best new long distance AM radios you can buy.

The Sony SRF-59 is another 'sleeper': it looks like a cheap headset radio you would give to a little kid so they could tune in the local pop FM station.

Until a few years ago MW radio aficionados thought it was just a cheap headset until a couple long distance listeners ("DXers") discovered by accident that it pulled in stations like crazy and worked great with an external loop.

ENTER THE RADIO SHACK 'POCKET RADIO'

The Radio Shack 120-586 AM-FM Pocket Radio is another such 'sleeper' product. I first heard of it on the internet. Some guys were saying it had amazing AM broadcast band reception. It was available at the local Radio Shack for around $14 -- that's $4-5 cheaper than a Sony SRF-59. So I got a Pocket Radio about six months ago.

What the guys on the internet said is very true: for a small pocket radio, which resembles the traditional transistor pocket radios of the 1960's and 1970's, it has amazing AM band and very good FM band performance.

It is what it says it is: a Pocket Radio. A small grey and black radio with a small speaker, and a stereo headphone jack wired for mono. You can place it in a small room and hear sports, talk, or music adequately. But like the 60's and 70's transistors it resembles, it won't fill a room with full sound. But you will still be able to hear talk or a football game OK.

The 120-586 Pocket Radio uses two AA batteries, and it seems to do well on them. I am keeping track of how long they last. If what I read on the internet is any indication, battery usage may be quite low. The fact the radio has no microprocessor and firmware operated power buttons, LCD readout, clock, etc. mean that the only time the batteries are being drained are when you actually are listening to the radio. I'm still on the two AA's I put in the radio when I got it.

Because of the low battery drain and great performance, the 120-586 would probably be a good emergency preparedness radio. It's small enough to shove in a back pack, a car's glove box; keep in your camper, or tool box, or even place in a shirt or coat pocket -- and it pulls in a large number of AM and FM stations. And on top of that, although you can use headphones, the speaker makes it a good choice for emergency preparedness.

I have used my Pocket Radio to listen to local sports stations while working out in my storage room, and I have used it on headphones while reading or falling asleep.

I take my Pocket Radio to work with me -- it slips inside my briefcase easily. It's unobtrusive enough and small enough to either use with the speaker or headphones. From work I can listen to either local AM news and sports stations, or local FMs -- or listen to California stations when working at night, as well as stations from other areas of the NW US.

The Pocket Radio pulls in a lot of distant stations from my workplace -- for example I can get KXTG 750 Portland, OR (about 150 miles / 200 km S); KEX 1190 Portland, OR; KGA 1510 Spokane, WA (200 mi E); KFBK 1530 (Sacramento, California -- about 800 miles S) and KGO 810 San Francisco (800 miles away) quite easily with listenable signals at my workplace in Seattle.

I use the Pocket Radio around the house or in the yard sometimes when I am doing chores.

I sometimes DX with it for fun.

It pulls in a lot of stations on AM, and does very well on FM -- the only drawback being that FM is in mono, even through headphones. Even so, the AM and FM sound through headphones is pleasant and full. Although it's a mono radio, the headphone jack is a stereo jack, so any set of stereo headphones will work -- you'll just hear everything in mono. But at the same time, you won't need a mono adapter to plug your headphones or ear-buds into the radio's headphone jack.

It has decent, full sound through headphones, and OK but tinny sound through the speaker.

The first time I turned on the Pocket Radio at night, I was pleasantly surprised. It was pulling in stations that radios with much larger antennas were pulling in.

SiLabs DIGITAL 'I.F. CHIP' INCLUDED

The radio does so well because it has a SiLabs digital IF chip inside.

Since the 1980's, most radios -- whether a headset, small portable, car radio, or boombox -- have had "I.F. chips" inside them ("I.F." stands for "intermediate frequency").

The radio's "IF chip" is the chip that is the heart of the radio. An IF chip is just a bunch of transistors crammed into a small chip half the size of your average USB flip drive. It grabs the radio signals from the FM whip antenna or AM loopstick antenna, and then amplifies, filters, and re-amplifies the radio waves, converting them into audio sound, which is then usually sent to another chip that powers the speakers or headphones (some IF chips have their own audio amp included). All the other components you see crammed around the chip (when you have the radio opened up) are just there to make the IF chip do its job. 

A photograph showing the radio PCB board inside a Sanyo boombox. In the upper left you can see the main chip, the IF chip, possibly a UPC1018 in this model of Sanyo. There are three "IF cans" near the chip, which are tuned coils that the chip uses to filter and amplify the AM/MW and FM signals. Directly below the IF chip are several, similar, tuned coils for FM. In the upper right of the picture is another chip that takes the FM signal from the IF chip and converts it to FM stereo (sometimes these are called "multiplexer" chips). The audio amplifier chips for this boombox are on another board on the other side of the boombox -- to the far right, off the picture.

There may be an audio amp chip to drive the speakers. There may be another chip to help you get stereo FM. And another chip to boost FM signals coming from the antenna. And there may be another chip that runs the clock, or makes the buttons on the front of the radio work. But the "IF chip" is what takes the radio signals and makes them usable for the speakers or headphones.

ENTER THE DIGITAL IF CHIP, OR 'DSP' RADIO CHIP

Until recently, all "IF chips" were analog -- just tens or hundreds of transistors, all amplifying, filtering, mixing and refining the frequencies for the radio. Some of them could be rather complex (the chip in the Sony SRF-59 would be one example), but they still operated as analog devices.

But that changed with the introduction of digital, software operated IF chips during the 2000's.

Digital radio IF chips are like hybrids -- they have a software program inside them that does much of the amplification, and all of the radio frequency filtering and processing (it's called DSP, Digital Signal Processing). Because a lot of the work is done by the software program (which doesn't need tuned coils, ceramic filters, trimmers, and other components), the number of outside parts needed is minimal.

The Pocket Radio with the front off, showing the parts. Compared to many other radios, there are very few parts, which is one reason the radio is $14-$15 or so. The top thumbwheel runs a variable resistor that tunes the radio. The bottom thumbwheel is the on-off and volume control.

SiLabs radio chips are probably the best known brand of these digital radio chips, at least among radio DX'ers. The typical SiLabs radio chip has an analog low noise amp (to maximise the signal coming off of the FM or AM antenna) -- and then a section in the chip converts the analog radio waves into digital signals, which are then amplified, tuned, filtered and processed by the software inside the chip. After that processing, the chip converts the digital signals back into analog audio signals, which are then sent to an amplifier chip that drives the speaker or headphones.

A pic of the Pocket Radio's PCB showing the location of the two chips that make it work.

SiLabs packs a lot of processing into their IF chips. On the MW band, where you have a lot of interference from nearby stations, such interference is surprisingly minimal. On most MW radios, if you tune to a weak station that is right next to a strong station you'll hear "splatter" -- a ker-chush ker-chush sound that is splashing over from the strong station on the next channel. With the SiLabs chip, you hear very little of this.

And the amount of signal a radio with one of these chips pulls from a small loopstick antenna is phenomenal. The Pocket Radio has a small AM loopstick -- it's 50mm long and 8mm wide, and works very well considering it's smaller than standard (most boomboxes and digital-readout SW portable radios have 100 to 120 mm AM loopsticks, for example).

But the Pocket Radio pulls a lot of signals from that small loopstick antenna.

On FM, it pulls in a lot of stations even with the whip antenna collapsed.

A SIMPLE MACHINE

When you look inside the Pocket Radio, it has relatively few parts. There is just a small circuit board with surface mount resistors and capacitors, the tuner control and volume control, the antennas, and two chips. There are no coils, no 'cans', no trimmers, no bulky variable capacitors, no DC-DC converter chips, none of that.

In fact, because it's so simple, and the parts seem fairly tough, the radio seems well built. One would probably have to stomp on it, or run it over with a car to break it.

The radio is inexpensive because it has such few parts. The lack of stereo is due to a small mono audio chip. They could have added a stereo audio chip and made the radio stereo through the headphones, but they probably decided to go mono to decrease cost. They may have also figured no one is going to listen to FM stereo on a single-speaker pocket radio.

The Pocket Radio with the back of the radio off. You can see a total of six electrolytic capacitors, and few other components on this side of the PCB. The other side has 30 or so more -- but still a lot smaller part count than the 1978 model Pocket Radio pictured at the top of this blog post. The loopstick antenna is at the top - it's a 50 mm by 8 mm loopstick, which is fairly common among portable radios today. Although it's short, it's a decent working antenna. The Sony ICF-38, a high performance radio on the AM band, also has a 50 x 8 mm antenna.

Because the Pocket Radio has an analog (or mechanical) tuner control (a thumbwheel on the side of the radio -- no tuner buttons) there is no need for a microprocessor chip or PLL chip in the radio to tune it or control it. One less chip on the printed circuit board to pay for or worry about.

The Pocket Radio is very much a simple machine.

GREAT FOR TAKING ON A BICYCLE (OR WALKING, HIKING, ETC.)

The Pocket Radio is great for carrying around the house and yard, or taking on a bike, or possibly jogging, as it puts out enough sound to hear a sports event, or even music (although music will sound better using headphones than through the speaker).

I take mine on my bicycle when there is a football game on, and I want to go riding. If I'm near a highway with a lot of road noise, I won't hear much, but if it's a quiet residential street, or a quiet section of a bike trail, I can hear football games O.K.

On a bicycle a radio like this is preferable to a headset-only radio, because it's not exactly smart to be wearing headphones or earbuds on residential streets, for safety reasons.

What the Pocket Radio has over a Walkman or headset is the speaker. Sometimes you don't want headphones or earbuds on, especially on bike trails where you need to be able to hear what's going on around you.

Last week I took my Pocket Radio with me to hear the Monday Night Football game. It was raining lightly out. A few drops got onto the pocket radio (which was in my coat's top pocket) but the raindrops didn't get inside the radio (of course). Although the radio is not waterproof, it's so simply built that a few raindrops aren't going to affect it much. Whereas with some digitally tuned radios you don't want any water getting near them.

VERY GOOD ON FM -- BETTER SENSITIVITY THAN AN SRF-59

On FM, it seems to be considerably better than the SRF-59. In my location it will pull in fringe FM stations clearly that the SRF-59 does not hear. For example, in my area, there is a Spanish language religious station on 93.7 that is fuzzy or MIA on many of my FM portables. The Pocket Radio brings it in well, even with its whip down. The SRF-59 -- which uses the headphone lead as the FM antenna -- won't bring the 93.7 station in at all.

In this case, it's too bad the Pocket Radio isn't stereo through headphones, as it works so well on FM.

A FAIR DX RADIO -- EXCEPT IT CAN SKIP CHANNELS

As a long distance AM listener (or "DXer", as we often call ourselves), I have recently been using this pocket radio to DX the MW / AM band at night. The radio works quite well. I can hear the majority of signals on it that I hear on my other DX radios, although a few signals are sometimes missing -- especially very weak stations right next to a local station running at high power.

Compared to my Sony SRF-59 headset radio (well known amongst MW aficionados), the Pocket Radio sometimes has better sensitivity, and better selectivity, on AM.


The only drawback when comparing the Pocket Radio to other portables is that the Pocket Radio is trickier to tune, if you are trying to hear distant AM stations. If you're just tuning local stations or strong distant stations, you won't have any problem whatsoever.

When it comes to finding weak signals, the Sony SRF-59 beats the Pocket Radio hands down. This is because the Sony is much easier to tune, and it doesn't tend to 'latch onto' a strong signal and skip over a weaker one. As you tune across the MW band with an SRF-59, you hear every channel except maybe a weak or MIA channel next to a local 50 KW station. On the Pocket Radio, there are many more of these skipped channels, because of the way the SiLabs chip tunes the band, and it can be frustrating.

The 'problem' is that the Pocket Radio is a mechanically-tuned, digital-chip radio. The tuner knob actually is attached to a device that is similar to a volume control (a variable resistor), which 'tunes' the SiLabs chip. It basically tells the SiLabs chip to tune upwards incrementally, or tune downwards incrementally. As you tune across a strong station you can hear the increments as the chip is tuning across it. And the tuning on the Pocket Radio is very, very tight. Because of muting built into the firmware in the chip, some channels 'mute out' and the radio will skip over them until a signal gets strong enough to rise over the muting. Then the radio will lock onto the channel.

A graphic depiction of how the Pocket Radio can skip over a weak station next to a strong station. In this case, the signal of the weak station on 1330 has faded just underneath the radio's "soft mute" threshold. Because of this, the radio's DSP chip will probably lock onto the stronger signals on 1320 or 1340. Once the signal on 1330 pops up above the threshold, the radio will lock onto it much easier. Once it is locked onto a signal, it stays there, even when the signal drops below the "soft mute" level. But when a signal is very weak, and there are stronger stations next to it, it is very difficult to tune to it.

TUNING THE POCKET RADIO FOR WEAK, DISTANT STATIONS CAN BE A BIT TRICKY AND FRUSTRATING

Tuning the Pocket Radio for distant stations often takes a bit of patience. If you want to hear a weak station that is near a strong station you have to tune very carefully, and wait for the radio to 'latch onto' the weak station. Sometimes (on AM/MW) you have to turn the radio to weaken the local station, and then the radio will 'latch onto' the weak station as soon as it fades up. After that, it will stay on the weaker station even after it fades down for a moment.

An example: I have a strong local station on 770 khz, KTTH, which runs 5 kilowatts at night. Right next to it is KKOH, 780 khz, a station in Reno, Nevada that covers most of the Western U.S. Using the Pocket Radio, the local station on 770 will cover KOH if KOH is weak. But if I turn my Pocket Radio to weaken KTTH 770, and tune a little to the right, KOH will 'pop' through. Then the radio sort of 'locks onto' KOH, and will stay there until I turn the radio off, or re-tune it to another frequency.

This 'popping up' of weak stations is a feature of the SiLab chip inside the Pocket Radio. The SiLabs chip in the Pocket Radio has a 'soft mute' that suppresses noise (something my Sangean PR-D5 does not have), but the chip also will suppress a very weak radio station once it's below a certain threshold -- the station will go from full audio and then sort of drop out for a few seconds, and then pop back up to full audio. Sometimes it's a pain to deal with -- most times it's not that bad. A lot of times you can still hear the station underneath the 'muting', it's just at reduced volume, and the tuner may skip over it when you tune the radio across it.


This skipping of weak adjacents doesn't always occur: I've heard KDWN Las Vegas on the Pocket Radio, and KDWN is on 720 khz, right next to local 50 KW master blaster KIRO 710. I've heard CFRN 1260, which is right next to a strong local station on 1250. Sometimes 1250 covers 1260 completely (especially since they went IBOC HD radio) -- on other nights, it doesn't. I regularly hear KGO 810 from San Francisco, 800+ miles away from me, right next to local 820 KGNW.

RADIO REBELDE HEARD BAREFOOT ON 1180 KHZ

I've even heard Radio Rebelde on 1180 khz, which is a station almost 3000 miles away. I could hear music from Rebelde underneath two other stations on 1180 (KOFI in Montana, and local KLAY in Tacoma, WA). The music was parallel to Rebelde's 5025 khz SW station. And this was without an external loop!

USING AN EXTERNAL LOOP -- TUNE THE RADIO TO THE STATION FIRST

If you use an external loop with the Pocket Radio you don't have as much dropout to deal with.

Using a loop with the Pocket Radio can turn it into a decent AM DX machine. The only trick is that in many cases it is best to tune the Pocket Radio to your target frequency before you place the external loop near the radio. If you don't, you may have trouble with the radio wanting to 'latch onto' a stronger local station instead of the weak, distant channel you want to hear. So tune the Pocket Radio first, then place the loop next it.

In summary, I think the Pocket Radio is a great performer for the size, and it's DX-able, but it can be frustrating to tune in a weak channel near a strong adjacent. It wasn't designed to be a DX radio, it was designed for someone to have a small radio with a speaker for carrying around or using in emergencies. It wasn't designed for DXing, but it can be done. Just be prepared for its peculiarities if you want to DX with it on the AM radio band.

IT'S A GREAT EMERGENCY, CAMPING, OR POWER OUTAGE RADIO -- NOT TERRIFIC FOR DXing, BUT STILL DXable

I suppose for a lot of radio listeners, these Pocket Radios don't have much appeal because they aren't stereo on FM, and aren't the kind of radio that fills a room with sound. But for someone who needs a small radio with a speaker to shove in their backpack or book pack, or for emergency preparedness, the Pocket Radio is a very good bargain.


And for a beginning MW (or FM) Long Distance listener, the Pocket Radio is well worth the price.


ADDENDUM, 5/11/2016:
One thing I've noticed recently is sometimes when the AA batteries are low/weak, the Pocket Radio can take a few seconds longer than usual to turn on. I'm not sure if it's just my own particular radio, or a characteristic of the Pocket Radios in general.

The SiLabs chips take about a second to initialise, and maybe the lower voltages from weak batteries cause them to take longer to kick in.

I still use my Pocket Radio periodically at work (it fits easy in my briefcase or bookpack), or when on my bike.
CC 5-11-2016

ADDENDUM, 5/20/2016:
I thought perhaps it was weaker batteries (they measured at 2.35-2.4 volts together -- the radio runs nominally at 3 volts), then I thought perhaps it was the battery terminals needed resoldering -- the radio was taking up to 10 seconds or so to initialise.

Then, I decided to look at the SiLabs Si4831 Datasheet/manual.

It says that "part initialisation may become unresponsive below 2.3 volts."

So, use fresh AA's with your Pocket Radio, or just wait until the chip initialises when they're a bit weak. The Pocket Radio likes fresh batteries, but it will work on weaker ones. It just takes longer for the chip to initialise and kick in.

And although it will work on heavy duty batteries, Alkalines seem to work best. But you do get a decent life out of them.
CC 5-20-2016

5/24/2016:
I have concluded that the initialisation lag problem in my Pocket Radio is NOT the batteries, it's something else. It is doing it again (the 10-15 second lag before switching on) with brand new batteries that put out 1.6V each. It still works, just has a long lag before turning on which never happened when the radio was new.

I'll probably buy another one in a few days and see if there's a difference. There may be a bad part or solder joint -- hard to fix because it's surface mount. The saga continues. :-)
CC 5-24-2016

6/1/2016:

I might have found the problem with my Pocket Radio: the battery connection was still a bit intermittent. I resoldered the points where the battery connects to the PCB, and also 'tweaked' the positive terminal towards the battery compartment a bit, to tighten the connection with the AA batteries.

It seems -- so far -- to have fixed the problem. The radio now fires up within about a second.

If this indeed was the problem, it would make sense. If the battery isn't 100% connected to the holder, the radio wouldn't receive all the voltage necessary to initialise the SiLabs chip.

I bought a second Pocket Radio for about $14 US. It works well, and the logo is slightly different on the front of it. Last night I heard 1660 Khz KBRE Merced California, a rock AM station, featured in a recent post on this blog.

THE MAN OUT OF DICKENS -- Merry Christmas

 

Once upon a time when I had a mediocre job, I had just enough money to keep my head above water. My car was used, and breaking down. My family was dwindling -- my father had recently passed and other close family members had also recently gone. It was nearing Christmas, and in my eyes there was little to feel joyful about. I looked around and saw all the gaiety, and did not feel a part of any of it.

This one particular Christmas season I was walking down the main street of the University District in Seattle. At the time, one of my pastimes was hanging out at used book stores, and the Avenue in Seattle's University District had several very good ones. Over the period of two years I bought probably several hundred books -- some of which were reference books and history books that I still use periodically.

This particular evening was a cool night in late December, and it was probably a few days before Christmas. The "Ave", a major shopping street, was cheery and bright with sparkling red, white, and green Christmas lighting, and many of the shops had Christmas shoppers and Christmas decorations in the windows.

         
As I walked from one of the bookshops towards my car, I passed a homeless man, in shoddy clothing, who was standing in the entryway to a shop that had already closed. He literally looked like something out of a Dickens novel. He was begging for some money. I looked at him. At first, I thought to myself – “this guy is just going to use whatever money for liquor.” Then my conscience was tweaked, and I remembered the words of Jesus, where he said something like "give to those who beg."

Often – perhaps way too often -- I lay those words aside. I’ll admit that. It is not easy to give money to someone who you suspect may or may not be a con artist. Especially now during the Recession, it is too easy to think that begging people are drug addicts whom you are just enabling when you give them money. So it is easy – convenient, perhaps – to put such people out of your mind when you are making meager money yourself. But there are those homeless in genuine need also, and you can’t always differentiate between them.

And yet here was this guy -- with a full, ragged beard, long hair, aged skin, shoddy clothes, just asking for some spare change.

This time -- instead of walking on -- I reached my hand into my pocket, and gave the homeless man all that was in it – maybe two or three bucks in quarters and dimes.

“This is all I’ve got that I can afford to give you,” I said, handing him the handful of coins. "Merry Christmas."

He literally jumped and cried out in joy, with a sparkle in his eyes.

I shall never in my life forget that moment.

It has stuck with me years later.

In fact, I remember virtually nothing else about that particular Christmas season except that incident.

I have no idea what the homeless man spent those two or three dollars on. Maybe it was a can of strong beer. But he obviously was in need. His clothes were dirty, and undoubtedly stank some. He obviously had no place to live. So what if he bought a can of beer with the money? It was only two or three bucks at most, but it gave the guy some joy, especially during the Christmas season.

Aside from this incident with the Dickensian homeless fellow, I don’t recall anything about that Christmas. If I think back, it wasn’t a good one. A breakup, a recent death in the family, financial hardships, overwork, poor health, and other factors made it a time – like many Christmases, unfortunately – a time that I wanted to forget.

But I remember that homeless man’s joy at just receiving a handful of quarters, during an encounter in the Christmas season. It is my only memory of that Christmas.

Christmas, of course, is a Christian holiday. It's the time of year many people in the U.S. think of family, children, giving, celebrating, gaiety -- and thanks to Charles Dickens' novellete "A Christmas Carol", they also think of charity.

“For I was hungry, and you gave Me food; I was thirsty, and you gave Me drink; I was a stranger, and you took Me in; I was naked, and you clothed Me; I was sick and you visited Me; I was in prison and you came to Me.” (Matthew 25:35-36)

The person whose birth many of us celebrate during this time of year told us to give to those in need.

It's ironic, that my only memory of that particular Christmas is not anything I received, or any partying or celebrating I may have done -- but it was when I gave a poor man in shoddy clothing all the change out of my coat pocket -- and saw his joy.

If only I had more such incidents of my conscience being awakened, perhaps I would be better off for it.

Merry Christmas everyone.

C.C.

Christmas Eve, 2015

WOODY THE WOODCHUCK SAVES CHRISTMAS!

I mentioned earlier this year, in my blog here, that I write fiction. I have been working on an action novel I shall probably e-publish under a pseudonym, and I have two children's eBooks for sale on Amazon.

One of them is a Christmas book. It's called "Woody The Woodchuck Saves Christmas".

It's for sale for 99 cents US on Amazon, and it's illustrated with over 20 original drawings. Here's a link to the page:

http://www.amazon.com/Woody-Woodchuck-Saves-Christmas-Campbell-ebook/dp/B00R1S2CXM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1450323581&sr=8-2&keywords=Woody+The+Woodchuck

I first got the idea to do the book when I found an owl puppet that my parents had purchased long ago that was going to be used as a gift -- but somehow got misplaced. Then a friend got me an elephant puppet, which would "talk" to my friend's grandkids -- and then I found a pig puppet I used to torment my friends and family with -- "No Pork! Pork is Bad!"

Soon after, I began collecting several more cheap hand puppets at dollar stores, and then I used a couple stuffed animals to entertain a friend's grandkids during holidays and get-togethers, by using them as puppets.

The 'Dancin' Pumpkin Man' who greets the door and said hello to the trick-or-treaters this Halloween, and last year, too.

I used a Jack 'O Lantern stuffed 'animal' / puppet to greet the local kids the past two Halloweens.

Woody sees the arrival of the mysterious Green Pigs From Mars.

In 2013 I decided to make a kids' Christmas book using some of these puppets and stuffed animals as characters -- not unlike the Winnie The Pooh books I grew up with when I was a kid (Pooh, Piglet, Tigger, and Eeyore were all stuffed animals that A.A. Milne in his stories).

Woody The Woodchuck.

After I learned to draw the characters, a story line began to take form. Woody the Woodchuck (a stuffed animal who sounds like Sylvester the Cat) and his friends save Christmas from the Green Pigs From Mars!

The Green Pigs From Mars arrive to destroy Christmas!

It's a fun little story, and those of you who have kids may enjoy reading it to them on your Kindle. If you don't have kids -- well, it still would make for enjoyable, light reading for the Christmas holiday season. And it's just 99 US cents.

I haven't made up a new story using my puppet characters yet: I started on an Easter one earlier this year but just ran out of story ideas.

Maybe I'll include Ball Cat in the next one. I don't know about that yet....

Hope all are having a good December so far, and for those who celebrate Christmas, I hope your Christmas season is going well.
C.C.

HALLOWEEN 2015

Halloween is one of my favorite holidays.

I realise it is somewhat controversial. Some of my religious friends believe it is not a healthy thing to watch horror movies, or participate in what they believe is a remnant of pagan traditions.

An electric Jack 'O Lantern above, and a carved pumpkin below. From last year, 2014.

I have a friend in Norway who says that only the younger people enjoy Halloween there -- many others think it's a bad American tradition that Norwegians should not adopt. My friend there carved a pumpkin ('gresskar' på norsk) last year and carved a first one the year before, and apparently had a lot of fun doing it.

The modern American Halloween holiday is mostly an Irish and Ulster-Irish tradition. We got it from the Ulster-Irish immigrants, many of whom migrated to Pennsylvania and in Appalachia in the 1700's and 1800's, and migrated from those places to other parts of the country.

My Cat Pumpkin from last year, which I kept lit until late November.

The custom of carving pumpkins evolved from the carving of turnips in Scotland on All Hallows' Eve. Many of those Scots migrated to Ulster (Northern Ireland), and from Ulster they migrated to the U.S. in the 1700's. And their customs followed with them.

When I was a kid I was fascinated by Halloween. The pumpkins, especially. I was crazy about jack o' lanterns. I still remember burning my thumb on a jack o' lantern candle when I was 3 or 4.

Three excellently carved Jack 'O Lanterns.

In my area of the U.S. the leaves are usually mostly orange and yellow during Halloween time, and it's a mystical feeling time of year.

A mix of carved pumpkins, factory made window decorations, and homemade Halloween decorations.

To me it's a time to carve a pumpkin or two, put out a few electric jack o' lanterns, and give candy to neighborhood kids who trick-or-treat. It's one of the few times you get to interact on a fun, positive level with the kids and their parents (who always accompany the kids when they trick or treat in my neighborhood -- I give the parents a candy bar, too).

Last year a neighbor carved an Owl Jack 'O Lantern. Really cool.

Not even the Fourth of July or Christmas get neighbors into such one-on-one interaction. But with trick-or-treating, most children out in the neighborhood are accompanied by their parents. It's a cool way to meet and engage in a fun tradition.

Some of my neighbors go all out with their Halloween displays.  Others turn off their lights, lock their doors, and hope the trick or treaters will just go away. :-( Happily, there aren't too many of them.

A family's carved pumpkin collection, Halloween 2015.

Last year (2014) we had a really good Halloween. The weather was cloudy but dry, and there were at least 15-20 trick-or-treaters that came to my door. In other parts of my neighborhood people had as many as 50 trick-or-treaters.

This Halloween it was awful. Pouring rain. I only had 10 trick or treaters -- that's including the parents. It was just the neighbor kids from across the street, and next door. I hadn't put up as many decorations as last year. I guess it didn't make any difference.

Most of the pictures I've posted here are from Halloween last year, and a couple years before. I only have a couple pictures from this year, because there weren't that many Halloween decorations out in my area.

A neighbor's Alien Vampire graveyard.

Now it's the major holiday season here... Thanksgiving has just passed, Christmas and New Year's are on the way. I don't include Black Friday because I never have participated in that commercialised custom.

Strobe-lit Halloween ghost window decorations.

Of course, right now it's way past time to put all the Halloween decorations in their boxes and dig out the Christmas lights. But I thought I'd post a little snippet of Halloween memories here on the blog.

Happy December. :-)

NOEN BILDER AV HØSTEN -- Some Autumn Pictures

SEASONS

Autumn is one of my favorite seasons -- it's probably my favorite, after summer. I have learned to enjoy Spring. When I was a kid, Spring always meant rain, and it seemed like a very dull season. But now I appreciate the changes a lot more.

Toadstools on an old fir log. The tree was over 100 years old when it was cut down. Taken just off the Cedar River Trail.

Winter is O.K., except we don't get much snow. Snow is a pain to drive in, that's true. But what is Winter without snow?

A lone Big-leaf Maple tree near a frog pond. Native maple trees here generally never turn red. Usually yellow to a deep, burnt orange color -- at least during good years.

Winter without snow is what we have here in Seattle during most years: 40 degrees (4C) and cold rain. Ugh. The bright spot is we will get a "pineapple express" now and then -- a remnant of a tropical storm -- that blows through maybe twice a Winter -- freshening the air and raising the temperatures from 35F to 55-60F (1C to about 16C).

And then, sometimes, we get snow. Usually an inch of wet snow that goes away the next day. But I digress... We're technically still in Autumn now, and the hills still show it in places. But the temperatures here are now Winter temperatures -- -3C to -4C at night (24-28F), maybe 5C during the day (48F).

The Cedar River on a bright Autumn day in mid- to late-October, 2015.

A DECENT AUTUMN THIS YEAR

This Autumn has been better than some. When we have good Autumns, the leaves on the trees are a nice shade of yellow and orange (not much red on the native trees here in the Pacific Northwest).

Oregon big-leaf maple leaves during a bright Autumn morning.

When we have poor Autumns, the rain and wind blow the leaves off the trees before you get a chance to really enjoy them. Or the leaves turn from green to a yellowish brown, and then to brown, and then they get blown onto the ground, and turn to a brown mush. :-)

Here you can see some of the native maple leaves are almost a burnt-red color, which is a bit unusual here.

So far this Autumn, we've had modest amounts of rain, and only two small windstorms. As I write this, in mid-November, the colored leaves are still on most of the deciduous trees, and some of the cottonwoods still have some green leaves on them

During Fall we often have cool looking sunrises. This one looked like a distant forest fire. I took all the pictures on this blog post with my Nikon L32 Coolpix snapshot camera.

My birch tree is usually the last tree in my yard to change color. It has just now started to turn yellow. Sometimes the leaves will darken to a rich shade of orange, and will stay on the tree until late December.

SOLOPPGANG -- Another Burning Sunrise in mid-October.

I've taken a few photos recently with my Nikon snapshot camera, and the shots in this post are an example of what the trees and skies looked like here in Western Washington this Fall.

A spectacular sunrise in October near Seattle. I aimed the Nikon L32 upwards so the metering would give the sky a more dramatic effect.

I included a few sunrise shots because we had a spate of spectacular sunrises this October. My new Nikon snapshot camera worked really well with the sunrises -- I was pleasantly surprised.

The closest thing I have to an Advent candle.

I hope all of you in the Northern Hemisphere had a good and safe Autumn this year, and for those of you who celebrate Advent, have a great Advent season.

CC

SOME LESSONS FROM A 'MONSTER'

Recently, another mass shooting in the U.S. hit the news. It occurred in the next state south of me, in Oregon. The city where the shooting occurred, Roseburg, is a nice area about 80 miles inland from the Pacific coast. Roseburg is in a small rain shadow, and the countryside resembles parts of Northern California more than it does the rest of Western Oregon -- broad, grassy hills with big oak trees. It's a beautiful area.

The economy there used to be timber based. Now -- like much of the rest of timber country -- it is economically depressed.

The young man in Roseburg who was the shooter was apparently disenchanted with his life, and held a lot of anger inside him before taking it out on innocent civilians at a community college where he apparently was a student. Like many such shooters -- the young man took his own life after the police showed up (in this case, the police shot him a couple times before he ran off to kill himself).

It's a common thread in many of these shootings: a usually young, disaffected man -- often emotionally or mentally disturbed (but sometimes not) -- writing a manifesto or saying dangerous things online before procuring a few guns and then going out to kill as many people as possible before killing himself.

Here in the United States discussions of these shootings always turn political -- on one side, you have those who blame the shooter's mental illness, medications, or some deficiency the shooter may have had -- usually defending the gun. On the other side, you have those who blame the gun above all else. Then the two sides throw names at each other and there is a lot of hate and discontent all around.

Granted, there are many guns here in the U.S. Granted, there is a lot of gun violence.

But no one seems to want to breach the idea that much of the reason for such shootings -- and other gun violence as well -- is economic in nature. I for one do not think that the fact that this most recent shooting took place in one of the most economically depressed areas of Oregon is a coincidence. While I don't think it's the factor, I think the lack of job opportunities for the young man in question was a contributing factor -- even psychologists I heard interviewed on the radio last week mentioned that he felt alienated and disenchanted with his prospects for a good life.

Recently, while at a thrift store, I saw this book, "Monster", written by an ex-gang member named Sanyika Shakur (former name, Kody Scott). Mr. Shakur was a member of one of the prominent gangs in South Central Los Angeles, and in his book he describes in fine detail the mechanics of gang warfare. I have read about three quarters of the book so far -- it is a grim read, but also a fascinating one.

Mr. Shakur doesn't necessarily tell us what the root cause of gangsterism is -- aside from his perception and belief that it is economic and racial in character -- a consequence of the U.S.'s history of economic warfare on black people.


The adage "there are more young black men in prison than in college" is an indicator of this. Our incarceration rate is devastating, even compared to the 1970's. King County Prosecutor Dan Satterberg mentioned this in a Seattle Times opinion piece Oct. 15: "If we were to return to the incarceration rate of the 1970's, we'd have to release 80 percent of all inmates in America." (Emphasis added).

Imagine that: The implication is that 80 percent of the inmates in the U.S. probably shouldn't be there. Either that, or there has been 80 percent more serious, felonious crime.

However, in the same article, Mr. Satterberg says that crime in the U.S. has been on a "downward trend", and has reached "lows not seen for half a century" -- 50 years.

Yet we also have a massive violent crime problem in urban America and an awful incarceration rate. And although incarceration reform can help part of the problem, the greater problem is that there are too many Americans who clearly feel they have no stake in society.

Young men who feel they have no future are prime recruits for crime, drugs, and gangs. And as we have seen in the mass shootings -- many young men who see that they have no future will turn to violence to lash back at society.

In the 1950's and 1960's, when the United States economy was at its apex, there weren't so many mass shootings, and less gun violence in general. And yet there were still a lot of guns per capita -- probably more than anywhere else in the world, save Switzerland or Israel.

Unfortunately, governmental trade and labor policies shifted manufacturing to other countries. A lot of good, well-paying jobs were lost. This hit the Rust Belt before it spread to the rest of the country.

California Governor Jerry Brown, when he was running for President in 1992, stated that during the 70's and 80's nearly 250,000 manufacturing jobs left South Central Los Angeles. Governor Brown blamed that job loss for much of the rise in gangs and poverty in L.A.

We have a large problem here in the U.S., and it's not just guns. And it's not just violence. There is something wrong with our economy, where not enough people feel they have a future.

Here in the U.S., our government seems to be rudderless when it comes to jobs and the ability to buy a home, support a family, have a future. Home ownership is on the decline. Even rental apartments are unaffordable for many.

This mostly bleak economic picture may not be the only cause of gun violence, but I think that it is a contributing factor that no politician, no pundit, and no press editorialist is talking about.

Which takes us back to "Monster". It's an excellent book. At the same time, it's a sad book. It's about a young man who got caught up in a gang because that's where his friends were, that's where his neighborhood was, and the gang, the 'set', was his identity. And -- it also provided him with a sort of living.

College was not an option. Education was not an option, either. In one part of the book, Mr. Shakur describes being bused to a high school in the San Fernando Valley, 15 miles from his home. He liked the school, but stopped going after the third or fourth day because the gang that held the territory just north of him shot up the school bus as it went up the road, and he didn't want to get killed on the way to school.

When I first heard of the shooting in Oregon, I was reading "Monster". It was like deja vu all over again. When a man shoots up a community college, it's national news. But large scale shootings take place nightly in economically depressed areas of major cities of the U.S. every day. Often such shootings don't get a mention.


Reading Mr. Shakur's book was a revealing look at a culture that a large percentage of Americans just hear about or read about. Mr. Shakur refers to the inter-gang violence in terms of war -- describing the clashes (wars, actually) between Los Angeles area gangs in terms of geopolitics -- the expansion of territory, street by street. Sending out scouts, and sending out carloads of shooters who are like the first prongs of an invasion.

His book is set in the late 1970's through the early 1980's. For much of it he was a teenager.

It was a bit discomforting to read about it, because in many parts of Urban America, this is still a very real situation.

The biggest thing I got out of it was that it was a picture of a young man who felt compelled to join a gang -- not just because of the camaraderie, but because there weren't really any other viable options. There were no jobs, and education was ineffective or unavailable.

One gets the feeling from reading his book that it's not just a race issue: it's also an economic issue.

Gun violence is everywhere -- and I can't help but think that much of it is because so many young American men feel they have no future.

Politicians can try to curb or ban gun ownership. Good luck. There are nearly 300 million guns in the U.S. With that number of guns available, it would take a long time to stop gun violence. Meanwhile, the root causes are still there.

Perhaps government leaders should try to improve the economy instead. Provide more opportunities for disaffected people to climb up the economic ladder. Improve education in depressed areas, combined with creating more decent paying jobs closer to home. And while they're at it, improve mental health care.

Try something that may work. Restricting gun access may help, but it's only a bandage on a much worse problem. If we really want to stop all kinds of violence in the U.S., we need to improve the economy.

People with good jobs, good homes and good futures generally don't want to shoot up the place. They usually want the opposite.

PS -- My thoughts and prayers go out to the French people after hearing of the terrorist attacks on innocent civilians in Paris. I have at least one reader who is from France. I hope you and your family are safe.
CC

NIKON COOLPIX L32 -- how to get decent pictures from one

My Fuji Finepix AX655 with lens stuck open -- it took terrific pictures when working.

If you have one, always use fresh AA's. Mine still works as an SD card reader -- so all is not lost. :-)

Recently my Fuji Finepix AX655 went belly-up. Well -- the closest thing to it: I was out taking some pictures with it and the lens locked up.

The camera gave me an error message, and no matter what I did, the lens remained stuck. The lens was stuck open, it wouldn't focus, and it was impossible for the camera to take any pictures.

One of the reasons I bought the Fuji was it took AA batteries. I just don't care for rechargeables.  Unfortunately, some cameras can lock up if you turn them on or off with low batteries in them. What happens is the lens will sometimes lock into place when the batteries run low. Your screen will still light up. But the lens is locked in place. And a "low battery" may actually be lower in charge than it appears on your battery meter.

When I got the Fuji back to the house I put in fresh alkaline batteries -- the lens was still locked, and wouldn't budge. I blew canned air into the crevices around the lens -- the lens was still locked. I tried all the tricks I found on the web, including taking the camera apart and blowing canned air all around -- no change. Still locked.

I even took the case off the camera to try and blow canned air around the lens without the case being in the way. No dice. The lens still was stuck.

My Fuji Finepix AX655 digital camera is now a Fuji AX655 SD card reader and paperweight.

I have an old Canon AX520 (which I bought at a thrift store) that I use frequently. When batteries are low with my Canon it simply won't turn on -- or it automatically turns itself off. Thankfully, it hasn't locked up on me. Apparently (hopefully) the firmware prevents that.

I like my old thrift store Canon, but I don't like having just one camera -- I'd rather have a spare.

Nikon Coolpix L32 -- a great snapshot camera -- just use the 'Scene' button.

ENTER THE NIKON L32

So I bought another camera. As anyone who may have read my earlier posts knows, I got a Nikon Coolpix L32. I got it at a local box store for around $100.

With my Fuji, everything seemed automatic: the camera would set the shutter speed and light adjustment for whatever light level -- bright sun, dusk, morning, haze, etc. -- and I always got good pictures. It truly is a 'point and shoot' camera. The only time I messed with the settings was to turn the flash off, or once when I took a night picture of the half Moon and Jupiter -- where I used the 'night scenes' setting.

This is a night shot I took -- of the half moon and Jupiter -- with my Fuji, using its 'Night' setting. It was the only time I used an actual setting with the camera. The rest of the time I just left it on full auto, and switched the flash off. Very simple. With my Nikon, there's an extra step.

I thought the Nikon L32 would be the same. Nope -- not quite that simple!

At first I tried some photos during daylight. The results were O.K.

Then I took some late afternoon photos, just before dusk. Blurry, most of them.

Then I took some morning photos, while the sun was still coming up. Same results. Blurry, most of them. Some of them were really bad.

I thought: what happened to the focus? What happened to the anti-shake that is built in to the camera?

ALWAYS USE THE 'SCENE' BUTTON

I was about to take the L32 back to the box store until I discovered the key to getting decent pictures from an L32: the "SCENE" button. The Quick Start Guide calls this the "Shooting Mode" button, but on the camera it says "SCENE".

It's a little green button just above the big multi-directional function button on the right side of the camera.

I pressed it. I got a menu.

There are all sorts of settings: Portrait, Landscape, Beach, Snow, Sunrise/Sunset, Night, Dawn/Dusk, etc.

This is the Scene Menu. As you can see, there are about 15 very useful light settings, from 'Portrait' and 'Landscape' to 'Beach', 'Sports', 'Snow', 'Party' (I think that's an indoor light setting), 'Sunset/Sunrise', 'Dusk/Dawn' (the one I use the most because there is a lot of low light outdoors in the Seattle area during Fall, Winter and Spring) -- and several others.
 *The "Night Landscape" setting also works very well in grey sky, low daylight conditions.*

Basically these settings tell the camera how to adjust for different light levels.

The straight automatic setting that many of us use with digital cameras just doesn't work well for most light levels using a Nikon L32. You have to press the SCENE button.

Being that most times when we're out with our camera it's during a morning, or an afternoon, or maybe indoors, or out in bright daylight, it really isn't that big a deal. It's just one extra button click.

After I took 15-20 shots in the morning and 90% of them came out great using the Dusk/Dawn setting, I was sold on keeping the camera.

Since then, I have discovered that the Sunrise/Sunset, Dusk/Dawn, and Night Landscape settings are similar in that they are all similarly sensitive to low light -- but they each emphasise a slightly different color tone to the pictures.

 PLAYING WITH THE LIGHT EXPOSURE BY POINTING THE CAMERA

One other trick I discovered is that the Nikon, like most snapshot cameras, will automatically meter (brighten or darken the exposure) depending on where you point the camera. So -- if you want a dramatic sunrise, for example -- you point the camera up towards the sky, where it is lighter. The camera will darken the exposure, and the sunrise will seem more dramatic.

A sunrise picture I took the morning of October 6th, 2015, using the Nikon L32. I aimed the camera up towards the sunrise. The clouds looked more dramatic that way.

If you want the lower area of the picture to be lighter so you can see the yard, bushes, etc., point the camera down towards those darker areas. The camera will lighten the exposure. Press the shutter button part way, and then move the camera back up towards the sunrise or sunset. The light metering will hold, and although the sunrise will be less dramatic, the lower part of the picture will be lighter.

I took this photo maybe 15 seconds after the one above on October 6th. The ground area is lighter in this picture because I pointed the Nikon L32 downwards and held the shutter button about halfway down, which seems to lock in the light setting. So -- the lower area of the picture is more visible -- the sunrise isn't as dramatic, though. It's a bit bleached out.

With this sunrise picture, taken October 5th, 2015, I pointed the Nikon L32 down towards the Trail and held the shutter button partway to lock in the light setting.

The main reason I'm putting this all in a blog post is because there really isn't much information online on how to get good shots from one of these L32 cameras, and frankly, many people who bought these cameras at the same box store where I got mine complained online about poor pictures.

BATTERY METER SORT OF HELPFUL, BUT CAMERA KNOWS WHEN BATTERY IS LOW

One morning a week or so ago I tried to shoot a picture with the Nikon, and the batteries apparently were too low for using the flash. Instead of locking up the lens, the camera said "Batteries Exhausted", and shut down. Good sign!

It happened to me again this morning. I took two photos and the battery meter -- a tiny icon in the upper right corner of the L32's screen -- showed what seemed to be a full charge.

When I pressed the power button about 10 minutes later I got the "Batteries Exhausted" warning message again. The lens didn't even try to come out of the camera.

The battery meter is fairly sensitive, but you get three settings: full charge, 'half' charge (which shows up just before the camera refuses to turn on), and "Batteries Exhausted".

The camera is also apparently designed to shut down if it's too cold (which will affect the batteries).

Considering I experienced a lens lock up with my Fuji, I have more confidence that Nikon figured out a way for the camera to just not do anything if it senses the batteries are too low to operate the lens. If this tendency holds, that is a very good sign. I'd rather have a camera that refuses to operate than lock up the lens.


Hopefully, my new Nikon will never become a paperweight like my Fuji has.

DON'T MOVE TELEPHOTO PAST THE LITTLE HATCH-MARK FOR BEST RESULTS

The only other glitch this camera has is the telephoto. If you press the telephoto button all the way to the right and hold it there, the telephoto function will eventually switch from physical telephoto to electronic zoom. In other words, the Nikon tries to make the camera pretend there is more telephoto available than there really is.

 An example of 'Electronic Zoom' -- you move the telephoto control past the hatchmark on the L32's screen, the 'electronic zoom' feature takes over. This picture was also taken when I hadn't understood the light metering of the camera, so it would have been a bit blurry anyway. Just a more extreme example.

On screen there is a little hatch-mark about 3/4 to the right when you use the telephoto. If you pass that little hatch-mark, you are no longer extending your telephoto -- the camera is electronically zooming into the picture, and it will be grainy. For the best shots using a telephoto, don't take it past the little hatch-mark on the screen. 

I took this sunrise picture using the 'Dusk/Dawn' setting and also the telephoto function -- I kept the telephoto to the left of the hatchmark and got good results.

This sunrise picture was also taken using the telephoto and 'Dusk/Dawn' setting (maybe the Sunrise setting? -- I don't remember. They're very similar).

I realise there is some information on the L32 out on the 'net, but finding any instructions online that were useful was very difficult, and unfortunately I couldn't download the extensive PDF manual on my computer. So I decided to go ahead and post some info on the L32 for anyone who has bought one of these cameras and hasn't had much luck in getting the quality of photos they expected. Hopefully this post will help someone.

A recent picture of the Cedar River in Autumn colors, Late October 2015, taken with the Nikon Coolpix L32.

FULL ON AUTUMN.

Moving away from cameras, it's full-on Autumn here in Seattle now, which means the hills are mostly greenish-orange-yellow (green from the fir trees, orange from the bigleaf maples, and yellow from the cottonwoods), and it's 11C / 50F and raining out most of the time.

Our weather was great throughout most of October, but after Halloween we've had a lot of rainy periods. Halloween itself was pouring rain. :-( Not many trick-or-treaters this year.

I have some Autumn pictures I took earlier in October which I will put up in a blog post in the next few days. 

Have a great picture taking day,
CC

PS -- As I said earlier in this post: Anyone who has a Fuji AX655: They're fine cameras but MAKE SURE YOUR BATTERIES ARE ALWAYS FRESH! It's a great camera -- very easy to use. But watch those batteries!

ADDENDUM, 2019:
As Google got rid of Google+, a couple comments from readers disappeared. One of them was a question from a reader asking me "Which setting is the best to use overall?"

I use the "NIGHT LANDSCAPE" setting the most, as light levels here in the Seattle area are often low during later afternoon or early morning. The NIGHT LANDSCAPE setting will also work during the day, strangely enough. If the sun is out bright, I switch to LANDSCAPE, which seems to be the standard bright daylight setting.

Even when using the NIGHT LANDSCAPE setting, I usually have the Flash switched OFF. Most times, it isn't really needed.

Sometimes I will use the SUNSET or SUNRISE settings -- they are similar to the NIGHT LANDSCAPE setting, except the color sensitivity is altered a little -- sort of like Kodachrome and Ektachrome slide films were back in film days. You usually can see the difference in the LCD display.

ELECTRONIC ZOOM: IT DOES WORK
ALSO: I have found that the Electronic Zoom does indeed work, and works well. It seems to depend on lighting. I have taken very sharp pics using the Electronic Zoom while photographing trees, flowers, and other subjects, both in my back yard and farther away. So L32 users, give the Electronic Zoom a try. You will see it sharpen in the LCD display.

Here is one of the pics I took with the Electronic Zoom, during one of the orangy sunsets we had two summers ago when there was haze from Canadian forest fires. This, I think, was when I first noticed the Electronic Zoom worked OK:

Thanks again to all who have read this article. It appears to be called up by people a lot while doing searches. These NIKON L32 cameras are handy little cameras. I still use mine several times a week.

Here is a pic of the river in snow last Winter.:

Peace,
C.C., 8-20-2019

ADDENDUM, April 5th, 2024:

After a frustrating photo session, where I decided to use my L32 after it had reset on me (the batteries had died, and I hadn't used the camera in a couple months), I learned the hard way that there is a definite difference between the "NIGHT LANDSCAPE" and "NIGHT PORTRAIT" Scene settings.

With the NIGHT LANDSCAPE setting, you can take pictures in almost any lighting, and by zone metering (aiming the camera at a lighter or darker area and setting the lighting that way, then aiming the camera at your subject) you can take good pictures in daylight, cloudy daylight, or dawn or dusk very easily. With this setting, the FLASH is always OFF. In most cases with NIGHT LANDSCAPE, you don't need the Flash, though. NIGHT LANDSCAPE is probably the most useful of the Nikon L32's settings.

With NIGHT PORTRAIT, you can NOT turn the FLASH Off! It's impossible. Trust me. I learned the hard way. Flash is useful at times, but it drains your batteries. I have a dead pair of new AA batteries because of it.

Do NOT confuse NIGHT LANDSCAPE with NIGHT PORTRAIT.  The semi-useful NIGHT PORTRAIT icon is in the first row of "Scene" icons. Don't use it unless you want to drain your batteries quicker. NIGHT LANDSCAPE -- the Very Useful setting -- is in the SECOND ROW of icons.

The SUNSET and DUSK/DAWN modes are also equally useful. As I mentioned in the article, they are like Kodachrome and Ektachrome -- you get different color highlights. With both of those settings, the FLASH is always OFF. Like with NIGHT LANDSCAPE, you probably won't need it.

PS. The manual isn't really ultra clear on much of this. There is a chart that shows the different settings and how they work, but overall, the manual is as clear as mud about a lot of this stuff.

- - - - - - - - -

I also made one small edit to one of the captions here -- changing "Night" setting to "Night Landscape" setting, and added "Landscape" in another part of the text, so that no one else has to go through what I just went through, after my frustrating attempt at getting good photos late this afternoon.

Looking through the manual, this camera was packed with interesting features. You can edit pics with just the camera. Remarkable. Nikon did put a lot of effort into coming up with a good product when they came up with the L32.

Just make sure you get the SCENE settings right, hey? :-)

C.C. 4-5-2024